Murphy's .....

Professur

Well-Known Member
bed. Anyone ever install one before? I'm looking at building one and ... freakin' hell the mechanism costs an arm and a leg. A couple of hundred bucks for what amounts to a pair of glorified spring loaded hinges.

https://www.wbsdistribution.com/default.php?cPath=303?osCsid=70f0f55b401a74fc969afe7e3b5fcedc
These guys are about as reasonable as it gets (that I've found) and their photos of the mechanism looks relatively easy to replicate with the tools I already have.
 

Altron

Well-Known Member
It's a bed on hinges. Go to the junkyard, grab a pair of the heavy hinges that old American cars used to use to hold the hood up, and it's good. Half the load will be on the beds feet, so you only have to deal with half of it on the wall, so IMO the best way to go is to maybe attach a 2x4 horizontally across 3 studs, then anchor the hinges to the bed and to the 2x4, so you can distribute the weight over 3 studs. Your houses have studs in canada, right?

Man, my Olds had bitchen hood springs. 20 years old, and they could pop up the gigantic, thick steel hood in a heartbeat.
My Maxima, with a smaller, lighter hood, came with these dumb compressed gas struts that failed after 7-8 years. Then, once they failed, there was no metal bar to hold it, so I had to prop it with a piece of lumber. I actually just replaced them a week ago with a set of $25 ebay struts. I wonder how long the new ones will last. They're working good so far, but CG struts work better in the summer. I remember at least 2 summers in the Maxima where the hood struts began working again, after they had stopped working the prior winter. We'll see if they make it through the winter. PV = nRT is a bitch sometimes.
 

Professur

Well-Known Member
I hope you don't address serious structural issues like that.


A hood spends 99+% of it's time closed, with it's springs relaxed. A bed will need to have it's springs in tension 100% of the time, either holding the bed vertical, or keeping it horizontal and stopping the bed from eating you like a character in a 1930's movie.

not to mention the basic aesthetics. You don't want this thing looking like you just stood a camp cot against the wall. The pivot point has to be placed so that when open, the bed is at a good height, but when closed, the bottom of the bed appears as a flat panel. Usually that underside is disguised as cabinetry.
 

Professur

Well-Known Member
I could. But I could also buy a ford and have sex with a man. None of which are likely to happen anytime soon.
 

Professur

Well-Known Member
Yep. I plan to have sex with a man on a futon I just brought home strapped to the roof of a Ford ..... 30 minutes after hell freezes over.
 

Altron

Well-Known Member
the hood springs are always under tension. That's why when you hit the hood release, it "pops" up a little. The two-step latch is working against the hood springs. If the springs weren't under tension, then it would stay completely closed when you pulled the hood release inside the car.
 

Inkara1

Well-Known Member
You're both right. There's a spring around the lock-down pin, and the springs on the hinges are under tension when the hood is down. Ever take the hood off those spring hinges, then try to push the spring hinge down without the benefit of the weight of the hood and the leverage added from pushing down on the end of the hood a few feet away?

Now, newer cars have lighter hoods that wouldn't be strong enough to hold the springs at tension without bending the hood. Hoods on cars with spring hinges are very heavy (ever lift one?) and also very reinforced.

I've attached a picture of a car with spring hinges on the hood to show how it's reinforced and can take the pressure the springs would put on it. Some 1966-1967 Fairlanes with 427 engines had fiberglass hoods, and on those, Ford had to remove the springs from the hood hinges and supply a prop rod because the springs would be strong enough to break the fiberglass hood.
 

Altron

Well-Known Member
HPIM0706.jpg


Strong ass spring right there.
 

Inkara1

Well-Known Member
I hope that's not your Maxima. If it is, a story as to what happened to the driver's-side headlight and both side-marker lights will now be required.
 

Altron

Well-Known Member
Inky, I thought you were more observant than that? Do you see any scratches on the car, or any bent brackets, or snapped bolts, that would indicate a forced removal or destruction of the headlights? I was taking off my OEM headlights to put on my good ones. The ones that just got me 2nd place in my category (Lightly Modified, 95-99) at the biggest Maxima-only car show in the world (Maxus09). Stockers are these nasty 9004 dual-filament monstrosities. My good ones are the internals from an Infiniti M35 headlight crammed into my Maxima headlights.
 

Altron

Well-Known Member
Well, the factory headlights are in Florida right now. The ones you see in that picture are my spare OEM set, which came off of a '96 in Pennsylvania.

This is what they looked like when I took them off the car (My factory '97 lights top, the '96 replacement lights bottom)
IMG_1188.jpg



This is what they looked like when I sold them to a guy florida, with Acura MDX internals
IMG_2130.jpg
 

Inkara1

Well-Known Member
So how much of a difference does it make in the quality and distribution of the light to have the lenses with refractors in them instead of the clear lenses?
 

Altron

Well-Known Member
There isn't a major difference in output between the two.

The 95-96 use parabolic reflectors and fluted lenses to give a beam pattern. The 97-99 have multifaceted reflectors and clear lenses to make a pretty similar beam pattern.

The 9004 bulbs in them aren't that great to begin with. Dual-filament bulbs by nature tend to be inferior to a comparable dual-bulb setup, because you have less reflector space to use for each filament.

Not to mention, the 9004 is a weak bulb anyway. At 12.8v nominal, it's got a 700 lumen 45w lowbeam, and a 1200 lumen 65w high beam. There isn't much light to play around with.

Optical technology is advancing very fast. There's a reason that 9004s went out of use in the late 90s, early 2000s - they're just not very good bulbs. We've seen H9/H11 become pretty popular, and multifaceted reflectors and projectors becoming popular too. Many midsize sedans have moved up to H11 projectors, which are significantly better lighting than the dual-filament lens-optics reflectors.

Of course, the US auto lighting regulations are far behind ECE standards. I am very disappointed with red turn signals, especially small ones. I think that cars with red turn signals should be required to have all the red lamps on that side of the vehicle flash when signalling, not just one. You see that with a lot of Hondas - they'll have big red tail lights, with a tiny red turn signal wedged under it. It's very easy to not notice a small blinking red light when it's surrounded by much larger steady red lights. I like my amber turn signals.

At the Maxima show, I saw some really dumbass lighting setups. I saw one guy with every light on his car being clear. White turn signals, white brake lights. It was beyond stupid.

Many had white rear clearance lights, which I thought were stupid. The rear clearance lights are a little 194 red light at the corner of the tail lights, and most guys had clear bulbs in them, so it looked like they had their reverse lights on.

Plenty had blue reverse lights, which is dumb.

Lots had Plug-and-Play LED bulbs. Dumb fucking idea. The LEDs all point the same way, so they'll have this big brake light or turn signal, and only a disk about the size of a quarter lights up, the rest is always dark, because none are shining at the reflector. I like LED lights, but do it right and use a circuit board with a large array of them, not a $15 ebay bulb.

I'm happy with the lighting on my car. I have large red tail lights, conspicuous amber turn signals in the rear, projector halogen high beams, projector xenon low beams, amber front parking lights adjacent to the headlights, and very large amber front turn signals separate from the headlights. My front turn signals are about 18" long, 2" high, and wrap around the front of the car. Far superior than those cars that just use a 2" round reflector as the only front turn signal.
 
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