nalani
Well-Known Member
I'm back from my trek across razor-sharp lava! hehehe
It was a great camping trip - I mreally missed ku'u and her little family though
I haven't slept that good in ages! Listening the the waves break right there, a mere 100 yards from you *sigh* ... it's so restful.
I went surfing on Saturday - there's a beach with a great inshore break and since it's been 10+ years since I've been out there, I figured, "why not?" so I grabbed a board and went out .. it was great! I even got a nene rash! (the sign of a true surfer ) ... all of Saturday night I wondered why I ever gave it up .. just because I had to be a "grown up" was no reason ... surely, I can still be a mom and surf .... then yesterday we went surfing again .. I caught a few really great waves then, on one in particular, I miss judged the break .. the wave broke left, I broke right .. and my foot .. well, let's just say it just plain broke .. actually, I don't know if it's broken or not .. I haven't gone to the doctor. I heard and felt something crack but we were in the middle of nowhere .. nothing else to do but grab the board and go out for another back set .. my left foot was perfectly fine for kicking ... when I was done and the pain was the throbbing and radiating up my calf, it dawned on me why I don't surf anymore
I'll post some pics so you guys can have a slightly better idea of what ku'u was talking about in her related thread ... but not the one of my nene rash
It was a great camping trip - I mreally missed ku'u and her little family though
I haven't slept that good in ages! Listening the the waves break right there, a mere 100 yards from you *sigh* ... it's so restful.
I went surfing on Saturday - there's a beach with a great inshore break and since it's been 10+ years since I've been out there, I figured, "why not?" so I grabbed a board and went out .. it was great! I even got a nene rash! (the sign of a true surfer ) ... all of Saturday night I wondered why I ever gave it up .. just because I had to be a "grown up" was no reason ... surely, I can still be a mom and surf .... then yesterday we went surfing again .. I caught a few really great waves then, on one in particular, I miss judged the break .. the wave broke left, I broke right .. and my foot .. well, let's just say it just plain broke .. actually, I don't know if it's broken or not .. I haven't gone to the doctor. I heard and felt something crack but we were in the middle of nowhere .. nothing else to do but grab the board and go out for another back set .. my left foot was perfectly fine for kicking ... when I was done and the pain was the throbbing and radiating up my calf, it dawned on me why I don't surf anymore
I'll post some pics so you guys can have a slightly better idea of what ku'u was talking about in her related thread ... but not the one of my nene rash