The muffler on my car
- Thread starter Altron
- Start date
chcr
Too cute for words
If your car is noisier than it was then you almost certainly have an exhaust leak. This can be dangerous as will as annoying since it can allow carbon monoxide into the passenger compartment. Drive with a window cracked until you find out for sure.
Re converting to rear disc, I've done it once. It's expensive and there is an incredible amount of work involved. You have to change the master cylinder and proportioning valve as well. I'd leave it alone, it's a big, heavy car and it's never going to stop on a dime. It would be a waste of time and money, IMHO. Changing the tire size will affect your speedometer, smaller diameter = higher speed reading than actual speed.
Re exhaust work in NJ, it will be much less painful to get a shop to do it since it frequently requires cutting and welding. Yes, the "header" SnP refers to is the exhaust manifold. A header is something else, but about 70% of American males don't know it.
Re suspension modification, don't do it, you'll be sorry. In a car like that you can really decrease ride quality without having any useful effect on handling. If you want something that handles like a sports car, get a sports car.
Note that I too have used the coat hanger trick as a stop gap to semi-permanent solution. Of course, I grew up on a farm and we used baling wire instead (barbed fence wire once in an emergency but I don't recommend it) but the principle is the same.
Re converting to rear disc, I've done it once. It's expensive and there is an incredible amount of work involved. You have to change the master cylinder and proportioning valve as well. I'd leave it alone, it's a big, heavy car and it's never going to stop on a dime. It would be a waste of time and money, IMHO. Changing the tire size will affect your speedometer, smaller diameter = higher speed reading than actual speed.
Re exhaust work in NJ, it will be much less painful to get a shop to do it since it frequently requires cutting and welding. Yes, the "header" SnP refers to is the exhaust manifold. A header is something else, but about 70% of American males don't know it.
Re suspension modification, don't do it, you'll be sorry. In a car like that you can really decrease ride quality without having any useful effect on handling. If you want something that handles like a sports car, get a sports car.
Note that I too have used the coat hanger trick as a stop gap to semi-permanent solution. Of course, I grew up on a farm and we used baling wire instead (barbed fence wire once in an emergency but I don't recommend it) but the principle is the same.
A.B.Normal
New Member
275/60r15 will show 65mph when actual speed is 63mph and is a -3.1% difference in diameter.
235/60R15 will show 65mph when actual speed is 59mph and is a -9.6% difference in diameter .
At work we are allowed to deviate no more than +/- 3% ,so neither is acceptable IMO ,but definately not the 235/60R15
.
Tiresizer available at www.cat.cc
235/60R15 will show 65mph when actual speed is 59mph and is a -9.6% difference in diameter .
At work we are allowed to deviate no more than +/- 3% ,so neither is acceptable IMO ,but definately not the 235/60R15
.Tiresizer available at www.cat.cc
A.B.Normal
New Member
Altron said:
You don't necessarily need new drum/rotors when you do your brakes ,you may be able to get them turned (lathed ).If they are badly warped or rusted or too thin to turn ,then you'll need noew ones.
What does the door plate say is the stock size,my previous post assumed the tires on it were stock.
A.B.Normal
New Member
Yeah,even trying to get the exhaust like he wants is gonna be over $550 .IMONixy said:
Inkara1
Well-Known Member
When you get new shoes for drum brakes or new pads for discs, you always have the drums or rotors turned. If they're too far out to be turned, replace them. The rotors/drums and the pads/shoes wear into each other.
If they're able to be turned, you always want to do that without exception, unless you like throwing away $40 per disc/drum (the difference between the cost of turning and the cost of a new one).
If they're able to be turned, you always want to do that without exception, unless you like throwing away $40 per disc/drum (the difference between the cost of turning and the cost of a new one).
Professur
Well-Known Member
Inkara1 said:
Wrong. Personally, I replace rotors without fail. Metallic pads tear hell outta them, and if I'm going through the effort of pulling the brakes apart, I'll take the opportunity to add new, thick disks to heat sink the energy. Turning them gives you a nice, true contact surface, but you're taking off heat sink material .... and that's what lets you stop in the first place.
Drums, however, I simply hit with a bit of 180 grit, unless they're obviously out of round.
Kruz
New Member
also the rotors now days are thin to start with, you may machine them once and they are done.
However.. the Oldsmobile Wagon (aka: M1-A1 Main Battle Tank) has much thicker rotors and are able to machine more than once or twice. BUT, the rust and corrosion of northeast winters and the liberal use of salt for melting icy roads. make nice metal parts pockmarked with rust holes and not worth trying to save.. (replace'em)
However.. the Oldsmobile Wagon (aka: M1-A1 Main Battle Tank) has much thicker rotors and are able to machine more than once or twice. BUT, the rust and corrosion of northeast winters and the liberal use of salt for melting icy roads. make nice metal parts pockmarked with rust holes and not worth trying to save.. (replace'em)
Altron
Well-Known Member
Stock size is either 225/70R15 or 225/75R15.
I'm not trying to make it look or run anything unlike a classic car. I'm looking to be able to
A) Stop quickly when neccessary
B) Have a comfortable ride
C) Not have to worry about blowing out a tire
D) Not have to worry as much about sliding my ass out on a turn
E) Be able to accelerate at the same rate as the other cars without having to give it loads of gas
F) Not die of carbon monoxide posioning
G) Be able to hear over the noise of the exhaust
The reason for the suspension is because the one on there ain't very good. I don't know exactly what to look for, but we brought it to a mechanic six months ago and he said that there will definetly be new shocks/springs in the future. I'm not going to go racing. I would, however, like to have a suspension that actually works and tires that actually have treads on them. An exhaust system that doesn't leak would be nice, and brakes are always good.
I'm not trying to make it look or run anything unlike a classic car. I'm looking to be able to
A) Stop quickly when neccessary
B) Have a comfortable ride
C) Not have to worry about blowing out a tire
D) Not have to worry as much about sliding my ass out on a turn
E) Be able to accelerate at the same rate as the other cars without having to give it loads of gas
F) Not die of carbon monoxide posioning
G) Be able to hear over the noise of the exhaust
The reason for the suspension is because the one on there ain't very good. I don't know exactly what to look for, but we brought it to a mechanic six months ago and he said that there will definetly be new shocks/springs in the future. I'm not going to go racing. I would, however, like to have a suspension that actually works and tires that actually have treads on them. An exhaust system that doesn't leak would be nice, and brakes are always good.
paul_valaru
100% Pure Canadian Beef
Altron said:
a) buy a new car, or drive slower
b) replace shocks with what the manufacterer recommends
c) buy what is recommend in the manual, and fill them to the specs on the door.
d) replace bench with bucket seats OR get some kinds bucket type thingy back support at the drug store.
e) buy a new car
f) fix the exaust system (or don't start it in the garage with the door closed)
g) fix the exaust sytem
you have an old station wagon, a good old people mover, it cannot be what it is not.
A.B.Normal
New Member
Altron said:
A)replace pads/shoes and turn rotors/drums if required.Drain and replace Brake fluid with recommended type.
B)That can be anything from Shocks,Springs/Struts or any other suspension component.Comfort for comfort sake isn't necessary,comforable ride for safety is a requirement.
C)Replace the two worst (same axle) now with the manufacturers recommended and the other two when you have more $$$ FYI new tires always go to the rear ,even on a front wheel drive
D)see C)
E)Heavy vehicle needs more gas to get going as opposed to lets say a HONDA. A gear change may help ,but the returns on $$ wouldn't be worth it.
F)Only replace those components you need to ,to pass emissions and keep your rear window rolled up whilst driving.
G) replacing those bad components in F) will quiet it down.
Altron
Well-Known Member
The tires have almost no tread left. The springs and shocks are worn to hell. The brakes are working, but there ain't much left in 'em. This is what I was told by a reliable mechanic (i.e. one who isn't trying to sell me something) SIX MONTHS ago.
These threads always turn into a "don't fix it if it ain't broken, youngin'" thing. I'd like to replace the brakes BEFORE I slam into something at 70mph because I couldn't stop because even though I knew that the brakes were worn, I didn't replace them.
I'd like to replace the suspension BEFORE a spring snaps or something like that and leaves me stranded.
I'd like to replace the tires BEFORE one blows out at 65mph, BEFORE I go into a turn a little fast and get in a spin.
So, do I get a whole roll of that muffler repair tape and just wrap it around every joint until it looks airtight? I dunno if it's something as simple as a bad weld between two pipes or if everything is broken. That's why I'm making a thread about it before spending any money.
I'm not going to buy a new car. I like my car, I just want to keep it runnin' well and not neglect repairs. I'd like for it to be able to stop and go when I need it to, and be comfy in between.
These threads always turn into a "don't fix it if it ain't broken, youngin'" thing. I'd like to replace the brakes BEFORE I slam into something at 70mph because I couldn't stop because even though I knew that the brakes were worn, I didn't replace them.
I'd like to replace the suspension BEFORE a spring snaps or something like that and leaves me stranded.
I'd like to replace the tires BEFORE one blows out at 65mph, BEFORE I go into a turn a little fast and get in a spin.
So, do I get a whole roll of that muffler repair tape and just wrap it around every joint until it looks airtight? I dunno if it's something as simple as a bad weld between two pipes or if everything is broken. That's why I'm making a thread about it before spending any money.
I'm not going to buy a new car. I like my car, I just want to keep it runnin' well and not neglect repairs. I'd like for it to be able to stop and go when I need it to, and be comfy in between.
A.B.Normal
New Member
Why not replace the engine before it dies and leaves you stranded
,being left by the side of the road is "only"inconvenient.Safety first ,convenience and comfort is secondary,you need to budget yourself accordingly.With $550 you are not going to be able to do it all,thats a fact,so why
if it means your not going to be able to afford brakes and tires.
My first car was a 1970 Maverick which I bought for $100 and drove and kept repaired for 4yrs,it was still running/operating fine when I gave it to my brother,so before you start getting BITCHY about our advice remember we've been where you are.
paul_valaru
100% Pure Canadian Beef
why not buy decent used parts from a scrape yard?
A.B.Normal
New Member
paul_valaru said:
He may be able to find rotors/drums used ,but hes still gonna have to have them turned. I would never recommend used pads/shoes or exhaust components or shocks ,they aren't going to worth the wasted time installing them,because they simply aren't reliable IMO.You might be able to buy some good tires used though,I know some customers don't want their old tires ,so we give them to a third party to dispose of.They sell any that are of roadworthy status at a decent price.