New car time!

The van, naturally. At least my difficulty was because of the engine's placement in the bay ... not just a piss poor designed engine.

BTW, the only longitudinal mounted engines today are in full sized trucks. I just finished that shopping trip.

...I can always buy 'pre-owned' until I can find a motor that I can at least do minor maintenance on (tune-ups and such).
 
So far I've had no problems with the Renault. It has only 19,000km on it thou, but 2 and half years of usage.

Too bad those don't sell in the US, otherwise Kruz might be able to give me some tips :D
 
So far I've had no problems with the Renault. It has only 19,000km on it thou, but 2 and half years of usage.

Too bad those don't sell in the US, otherwise Kruz might be able to give me some tips :D

It's French. 'nuff said...:D
 
I own two cars. My 1988 Audi, and a 1998 Chrysler Sebring. My Sebring is getting close to tune-up time, so I checked into what that would entail, considering it's a FWD. I was shocked. What kind of moron would require removal of the intake manifold in order to change 3 spark plugs and wires? I checked to see if there was another way to do it, and was shocked again. Now I know why it has 100,000 mile tune-ups in the owner's manual. To get a pro to do it would cost between $575 and $675 USD. I can get the parts and do it myself, but I'd still have to get the damned computer 'reset'. What a headache...:mope: Next car I buy will have a longitudinal mounted engine...

The guys in the shop tell me that's fairly typical in a modern V-6 or V-8. :shrug: It's the plenum that's the real problem but the intake removal isn't that atypical I guess. That sucks, but the answer to your question is evidently "many kinds of moron."

Re the computer reset, this is what you get when the government gets involved in shit. The time is not far off (already here for some) when you'll have to pay an extra hundred bucks or so a wheel when you get tires for the pressure sensing tire valves. You're not supposed to re-use them. I'm waiting for the order to come down to retrofit every car on the road and all because a few idiots can't be bothered to keep their car in driveable condition.
 
I own two cars. My 1988 Audi, and a 1998 Chrysler Sebring. My Sebring is getting close to tune-up time, so I checked into what that would entail, considering it's a FWD. I was shocked. What kind of moron would require removal of the intake manifold in order to change 3 spark plugs and wires? I checked to see if there was another way to do it, and was shocked again. Now I know why it has 100,000 mile tune-ups in the owner's manual. To get a pro to do it would cost between $575 and $675 USD. I can get the parts and do it myself, but I'd still have to get the damned computer 'reset'. What a headache...:mope: Next car I buy will have a longitudinal mounted engine...

there is no reason to reset the PCM (computer) when doing a tune up. just disconnect the neg batt terminal before starting and when finished, re-connect it. unless there is something else they want to do (like reprogramming the pcm for an update) but not for what you described.. *psst* get rid of it before the distributor goes bad, VERY common problem on those and they will cost you $1,200 + labor, if you can find one.
 
The R\T is the only one worth considering, 235hp and AWD available...(same hp as my 07 ram with the 4.7 v8) they are fun to drive!
pictures don't do it Justice, you have to see one up close.

I passed one on the freeway today... it does look better than in pictures but I still am not a big fan.
 
The van, naturally. At least my difficulty was because of the engine's placement in the bay ... not just a piss poor designed engine.

BTW, the only longitudinal mounted engines today are in full sized trucks. I just finished that shopping trip.

Rear-wheel drive vehicles always have longitudinally-mounted engines... HL's Magnum being but one example. But transverse-mounted engines aren't so bad if they're four-bangers. It's not hard to get to the plugs on the 2000 Neon.
 
and for 26k+ you can get a lot more car elsewhere.. (I'm taking my brother out tomorrow to look at a car for him, depending on how good a deal we can get. it's either going to be a Charger Daytona or Charger SRT8 (Mango Orange)
 
and for 26k+ you can get a lot more car elsewhere.. (I'm taking my brother out tomorrow to look at a car for him, depending on how good a deal we can get. it's either going to be a Charger Daytona or Charger SRT8 (Mango Orange)

Godamn box like cars!!
 
there is no reason to reset the PCM (computer) when doing a tune up. just disconnect the neg batt terminal before starting and when finished, re-connect it. unless there is something else they want to do (like reprogramming the pcm for an update) but not for what you described.. *psst* get rid of it before the distributor goes bad, VERY common problem on those and they will cost you $1,200 + labor, if you can find one.


Duly noted. Any suggestions for a decent 'used' car for under $12K with a longitudinal engine?
 
the newer sebrings are a breeze to tune up. and that old 2.5 is long gone. the 2.7 in there now has coil-on-plug ignition (no more distributor)
 
Get a Crown Vic with the police package. My buddy has a '98 and it's a fucking rocket. Engine mounted the right way, and it's got a real drivetrain. And it's got fuel injection too, so it will be really nice in the winter. And if you drive really fast, people will let you pass them.

Edit - or, if you can find it, a Mercury Marauder!
 
the newer sebrings are a breeze to tune up. and that old 2.5 is long gone. the 2.7 in there now has coil-on-plug ignition (no more distributor)

But its still a transverse engine. I can remember when FWD was rare, and RWD was the way to go. Funny how RWD is making a big comeback, so how much longer until longitudinal is back in 'style'?
 
I own two cars. My 1988 Audi, and a 1998 Chrysler Sebring. My Sebring is getting close to tune-up time, so I checked into what that would entail, considering it's a FWD. I was shocked. What kind of moron would require removal of the intake manifold in order to change 3 spark plugs and wires? I checked to see if there was another way to do it, and was shocked again. Now I know why it has 100,000 mile tune-ups in the owner's manual. To get a pro to do it would cost between $575 and $675 USD. I can get the parts and do it myself, but I'd still have to get the damned computer 'reset'. What a headache...:mope: Next car I buy will have a longitudinal mounted engine...
Fuck me, you've got some well paid mechanics around there. Had it done on mine a few months back for under $100. Btw, mines a convertible, yours? Have to say all in all I've been really happy with it. The big pisser to me is the heater core. Pray you never have to change it, you have to remove the entire dashboard to do it.
 
Fuck me, you've got some well paid mechanics around there. Had it done on mine a few months back for under $100. Btw, mines a convertible, yours? Have to say all in all I've been really happy with it. The big pisser to me is the heater core. Pray you never have to change it, you have to remove the entire dashboard to do it.

I have a coupe. Two totally different 'underpinnings'. Almost nothing interchangeable between the two models, if I'm not mistaken.
 
But its still a transverse engine. I can remember when FWD was rare, and RWD was the way to go. Funny how RWD is making a big comeback, so how much longer until longitudinal is back in 'style'?

I have a theory, wanna hear it? Too bad. ;)

Front drivers are easier and safer for unskilled drivers (read most drivers on the road today) to drive. They have more traction at the drive wheels and a tendency to understeer rather than oversteer. Correcting oversteer is easy (easier than dealing with understeer, IMO) but it's counter-intuitive. The safety-nazis of the mid-to-late seventies are the real reason there are so many front-drive cars around. Driving enthusiasts, on the other hand, have always understood that rear-drive is much easier to drive quickly. For instance, how many Formula One cars are front wheel drive. There have actually been some (a couple of Indy cars too if memory serves) but they weren't competitive. The RWD comeback is a combination of more driving enthusiasts in car design positions, a relaxing of the "safety at any cost," "protect the public from themselves" perception and the nostagia car trend.

Note that I used to have a Saab that had front drive and a longitudinally mounted engine. The Toronado and El Dorado were the same. There've been a number of others. Newer mid-engine designs are typically transverse and they're rear drive.
 
FWD is easier with traction control on, otherwise you lose steering if the acceleration is too strong.

Without traction control, RWD is far far easier.
 
FWD is easier with traction control on, otherwise you lose steering if the acceleration is too strong.

Without traction control, RWD is far far easier.

In case of wheelspin, the intuitive reaction is to release the accelerator. In a FWD car recovery is almost immediate and steering returns to normal. In a RWD car, this intuitive reaction only works up to a certain amount of slide. Past that point it's better to add power and turn into the slide. Decidedly NOT intuitive and a learned skill (albeit a fun one ;) ). I think that, for an inexperienced driver, front drive is still easier and safer than rear drive whether or not you have traction control. Remember, Luis, when front drive cars became prevalent car makers were only just beginning to entertain the idea of traction control.

OTOH, you learn what to do in a slide by doing it, don't you? :D
 
How is turning into the slide counter-intuitive? Seems like a completely natural reaction.
 
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