Favorite OTC Car?

Pursuit vs. Custom Cruiser?

  • I think Nixy's Pursuit is really nice looking and new.

    Votes: 4 30.8%
  • The Cusotm Cruiser, there is no substitute for a V8 and chrome.

    Votes: 2 15.4%
  • I don't like either of them, member _____'s car is way better.

    Votes: 7 53.8%
  • I don't like cars, I ride a bike.

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    13
As for the difference with 5A and 7A heads... the more air and gas mixture can be sucked into the engine, the more power it will make... at the top end, meaning you have to rev it to get the performance. Engines that are like that are described as not being very streetable, which means a shitty-assed idle and not a lot of power off the line. If you're taking a car to the drag strip, that's fine (ever notice top fuel and funny cars have rough idles?) but in day-to-day driving, it sucks. That's the reason there would be a demand for the lower-flow heads; it's all based on what the intended application for the engine is.
 
The lifters are metal slugs that rides on top of the cam shaft lobes. They then push up the push rods, which push up on one end of the rockers, which push down on the valve stem, openning the valve and letting either the fuel/air mix into the cylinder, or exhaust gas out.
A hydraulic lifter is the same thing, 'cept it's in two or more pieces, and those parts fill with oil to cushion the whole affaire, and to self adjust. When you hear a gas engine ticking, it's usually a hydraulic lifter not filling properly.

A roller lifter is a lifter that has a roller (wheel) on the tip where it rides the cam lobe. Normal lifters are metal-on-metal and count on your oil to lube it up and stop wear. A roller uses a small wheel at the point of contact, thereby reducing internal friction.
 
Inkara1 said:
After I get home from Atlanta, I'll turn right around and head out the next day with the Fairlane for a trip to Reno.

You suck. I'd give one of my own and both of your testicles for a '66.

*weep*
 
I'll be sure to take lots of pictures of all the '66 convertibles, hardtops and 2-door sedans that are likely to be there... maybe even a few 4-door sedans and wagons. GT, GTA, 500, 500XL, you name it, with the 200 straight six, the 289, the 2-barrel and 4-barrel 390... I can pretty well guarantee there will be some 427 cars with the fiberglass air scoop hood, too. I'm sure there will be some '66 Comets too.

:D
 
Now, you see, SnP, if you were to drag your ass south to the BBQ for even one night, you could stand in line for a chance to club that smug so-n-so with a good ol' bit of American timber of the 2X4 variety.
 
Inkara1 said:
As for the difference with 5A and 7A heads... the more air and gas mixture can be sucked into the engine, the more power it will make... at the top end, meaning you have to rev it to get the performance. Engines that are like that are described as not being very streetable, which means a shitty-assed idle and not a lot of power off the line. If you're taking a car to the drag strip, that's fine (ever notice top fuel and funny cars have rough idles?) but in day-to-day driving, it sucks. That's the reason there would be a demand for the lower-flow heads; it's all based on what the intended application for the engine is.

Yeah, but the 307 had 5A heads from 80-85, 7A heads from 86-89.


If the engine makes a bit of a whirring noise when you rev it, what does that mean? It just started to do that the past few days. It's a weird puttering/whirring/clicking noise. Think the noise of a ceiling fan blowing papers around.
 
Altron said:
Yeah, but the 307 had 5A heads from 80-85, 7A heads from 86-89.


If the engine makes a bit of a whirring noise when you rev it, what does that mean? It just started to do that the past few days. It's a weird puttering/whirring/clicking noise. Think the noise of a ceiling fan blowing papers around.

You said the 5A heads flow more, right? (I'm more familiar with Fords) Perhaps GM put in lower-flow heads to improve idle quality and improved the intake manifild or the exhaust system to replace the power. In any case, I'm sure it's not a humungous difference between the two heads.

As for the new noise, open the hood and listen to try to find where the noise is coming from. I'd suspect it's coming from something belt-driven, like the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, or a smog pump if you have one.
 
Professur said:
A fuel injector is no different than a bottle of windex. It squirts a mist of gas in time with the intake valve sucking in the charge of air. The O2 sensor monitors the results of the combustion to see wether it was too rich or lean, and adjusts the squirt accordingly.

And that's all there is to it, no matter how much your local mechanic tries to confuse it.

Yep, and because of that is easier to fix a fuel injection than a carburator.
 
Luis G said:
Yep, and because of that is easier to fix a fuel injection than a carburator.

I wouldn't go that far. A carb, you can fix. Injectors are disposable. When a carb takes a dump, you can usually still get home. When an injector goes, you stop.
 
Fix from the POV of a mechanic. You can either change sensors or change injectors, far easier than adjusting the carburator's valves.

I've been having problems with the Datsun's carburator, and it seems no mechanic can fix it. When the car is cold it would stall when gas pedal passes a specific position (when it switches from low to high valve), I need to pump a little to avoid that. Once the engine warms up, it still does it but to a lesser degree.
 
I'll have to pay extra attention during the engine warmup session this morning to see if it's there when the engine is running or just while moving.
 
Luis G said:
Fix from the POV of a mechanic. You can either change sensors or change injectors, far easier than adjusting the carburator's valves.

I've been having problems with the Datsun's carburator, and it seems no mechanic can fix it. When the car is cold it would stall when gas pedal passes a specific position (when it switches from low to high valve), I need to pump a little to avoid that. Once the engine warms up, it still does it but to a lesser degree.

Look into a scrap carb from a junkyard. Shouldn't cost more than $30, and half an hour install. That'll tell you right off wether the problem is local or not.

But .... you'll probably find that they can't find it... because it's not the carb. That described closely the problem that happens if the catalytic convertor melts down inside. Have them check for a restricted exhaust.
 
Professur said:
Look into a scrap carb from a junkyard. Shouldn't cost more than $30, and half an hour install. That'll tell you right off wether the problem is local or not.

But .... you'll probably find that they can't find it... because it's not the carb. That described closely the problem that happens if the catalytic convertor melts down inside. Have them check for a restricted exhaust.

When I was little I thought catalytic converters had something to do with Cadillacs :lloyd:
 
Professur said:
the catalytic convertor melts down inside. Have them check for a restricted exhaust.

Would a vehicle made for a non-US/Canada market even have a CC though,especially seeing as its a carburated vehicle(older).:shrug:
 
No clue. But I know that most mechanics this side of the border miss that, and it's much more common than most people think.
 
Professur said:
No clue. But I know that most mechanics this side of the border miss that, and it's much more common than most people think.

Hangin' around the Dodge sites too ,CC seem to be responsible for quite a few perplexing problems.Most just remove them and add an 02 simulator in place of the rear sensor or go with a High Flow Cat.
 
Yes Nixy, it should have one. AFAIK all cars using unleaded gasoline have one.

The Datsun however, doesn't have one. The carburator used to be fine, until something got in, I've had it cleaned over and over again, but still does it. I've been adviced to buy a renault carburator to gain power and save gas, this might be the time to do it. A new one should cost around USD$200.
 
Nixy said:
Does my car have a catalytic converter?

Yes and they are usually covered under a lifetime warranty because of anti-pollution requirements.If you've ever smelled a sulpher smell emitting from a car ,its because of the Cat .
 
A.B.Normal said:
Yes and they are usually covered under a lifetime warranty because of anti-pollution requirements.If you've ever smelled a sulpher smell emitting from a car ,its because of the Cat .

I like lifetime warranties.
 
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