Altron
Well-Known Member
Back in December, I picked up an Open-Box returned Panasonic CT36SL14 at work for $400.
It had no remote or accessories and quite a bit of superficial damage (the plastic trim at the bottom snapped off and the door covering the front inputs snapped off) but since the regular price was $800, not a deal to refuse, especially since we were using a Toshiba 27" curved CRT that was made IIRC in '94.
TV has loads of composite and S-video inputs, a pair of components, and DVI. Had some issues with the components but didn't drill them down (it's on my summer to-do list... instead of spending 35 hours a week in school and 20 at work, I'm doing just 25 hours a week at work and I have from Monday through Thursday off next week, going to get everything electronic running in tip top shape. Actually, I should put in a Parts Express order for some cables tomarrow. Going to get the HD on the 36" TV working, do a fresh windows install and update, get my stupid $80 Thai VGA scan converter thing working, get the new TV up and running, and do some unhappy A/V reciever research).
Tried my Samsung DVDP to both components with cheap cables. The Samsung is pretty old and not in the best condition, probably approaching 3 years, and the cables were utter shit, and it didn't work. I got the red video fine, but no blues or greens.
I then tried my XBOX with the stupid 12" long Thai XBOX Component video cable, and it was in black and white.
Haven't tried DVI, because I don't feel like shelling out $100 for a HDMI upconverting DVDP and then $40 for a HDMI-DVI cable. Some asshole over in the TV department thought it would be cute to take an open box DVI-upsampling DVDP and price it at $10 without telling me. I would have bought it in the blink of an eye, but some customer got to it first, and I was the one who rang him up! It was really difficult as he cheerily joked with me about getting such a good deal on a DVDP, when it was exactly the kind of DVDP I needed for an amazing price. I soooo wanted to say 'I'll give you ten bucks to not buy it' but held back.
Anyway, even though I haven't gotten HD working, there are enough variables that I think it's a problem with my DVDP and cables, not with the TV itself. Further reinforced by the fact that both inputs had the identical problem. I plan on fixing it during my newfound free time.
So on Wednesday I spotted a very similar TV sitting on the Open Box shelf. I did some research and found that it was priced at $250 new, on clearance, back whenever it was sold. It was a Panasonic CT32SL14, almost identical to the 36", except with 1 component and no DVI. DVI would have been nice for computer display, but my DVDP doesn't have DVI and apparantly the DVI port on my main video card does not function properly. I offered $200. My buddy offered $150 with a $50 3-year in home warranty. I figured what the hell, I was planning to spend $200 anyway, and if there ARE problems with component inputs on Panasonic CTxxSL14s, I want it fixed right away in my house, because component input is very important to me, and I can't lift the TV by myself. It was a bitch to get it from the car to the garage. The weight balance on those things is so awkward, It's a three-person job to do. It's abou 150lbs, 100lbs less than the 36", but because there is so much weight in the front it's difficult for two people to handle. You need one on each side and one in the front. Getting it down the stairs will totally suck, and I hope that I don't have to bring it back up the stairs for another two years.
So, I'll post some pictures after I lug the damn thing downstairs and figure out where to put it.
I have a 4' wide desk and I already have a 22", a 19", and a 15" monitor on it.
The problem with the placement lies with my big floor speakers. They can't be put on a table or anything, and I want them to be equidistant from my computer monitor and from my TV, and able to be positioned for listening at either the monitor and the TV.
And I still don't know what I'm going to do with the 27" Toshiba that's in the basement now. Or what I'm going to do with my component video inputs. DVDP, PC, and XBOX all have component outs, and there's one input. I have a switchbox but it's cheap and degraded the signal when I used it with Composite. I don't want to, but I might have to get one of those A/V recievers with all the video switching crap. My hope is that I can find a $50 open box cheapo-brand one that I can use just as a video switch, and keep my current 'Darth Opto' reciever setup (4-input cheapo component switch doesn't degrade audio noticeably with MP3s off the PC, probably due to the much higher bandwidth required by video, and it gives the Opto 6 audio inputs).
It had no remote or accessories and quite a bit of superficial damage (the plastic trim at the bottom snapped off and the door covering the front inputs snapped off) but since the regular price was $800, not a deal to refuse, especially since we were using a Toshiba 27" curved CRT that was made IIRC in '94.
TV has loads of composite and S-video inputs, a pair of components, and DVI. Had some issues with the components but didn't drill them down (it's on my summer to-do list... instead of spending 35 hours a week in school and 20 at work, I'm doing just 25 hours a week at work and I have from Monday through Thursday off next week, going to get everything electronic running in tip top shape. Actually, I should put in a Parts Express order for some cables tomarrow. Going to get the HD on the 36" TV working, do a fresh windows install and update, get my stupid $80 Thai VGA scan converter thing working, get the new TV up and running, and do some unhappy A/V reciever research).
Tried my Samsung DVDP to both components with cheap cables. The Samsung is pretty old and not in the best condition, probably approaching 3 years, and the cables were utter shit, and it didn't work. I got the red video fine, but no blues or greens.
I then tried my XBOX with the stupid 12" long Thai XBOX Component video cable, and it was in black and white.
Haven't tried DVI, because I don't feel like shelling out $100 for a HDMI upconverting DVDP and then $40 for a HDMI-DVI cable. Some asshole over in the TV department thought it would be cute to take an open box DVI-upsampling DVDP and price it at $10 without telling me. I would have bought it in the blink of an eye, but some customer got to it first, and I was the one who rang him up! It was really difficult as he cheerily joked with me about getting such a good deal on a DVDP, when it was exactly the kind of DVDP I needed for an amazing price. I soooo wanted to say 'I'll give you ten bucks to not buy it' but held back.
Anyway, even though I haven't gotten HD working, there are enough variables that I think it's a problem with my DVDP and cables, not with the TV itself. Further reinforced by the fact that both inputs had the identical problem. I plan on fixing it during my newfound free time.
So on Wednesday I spotted a very similar TV sitting on the Open Box shelf. I did some research and found that it was priced at $250 new, on clearance, back whenever it was sold. It was a Panasonic CT32SL14, almost identical to the 36", except with 1 component and no DVI. DVI would have been nice for computer display, but my DVDP doesn't have DVI and apparantly the DVI port on my main video card does not function properly. I offered $200. My buddy offered $150 with a $50 3-year in home warranty. I figured what the hell, I was planning to spend $200 anyway, and if there ARE problems with component inputs on Panasonic CTxxSL14s, I want it fixed right away in my house, because component input is very important to me, and I can't lift the TV by myself. It was a bitch to get it from the car to the garage. The weight balance on those things is so awkward, It's a three-person job to do. It's abou 150lbs, 100lbs less than the 36", but because there is so much weight in the front it's difficult for two people to handle. You need one on each side and one in the front. Getting it down the stairs will totally suck, and I hope that I don't have to bring it back up the stairs for another two years.
So, I'll post some pictures after I lug the damn thing downstairs and figure out where to put it.
I have a 4' wide desk and I already have a 22", a 19", and a 15" monitor on it.
The problem with the placement lies with my big floor speakers. They can't be put on a table or anything, and I want them to be equidistant from my computer monitor and from my TV, and able to be positioned for listening at either the monitor and the TV.
And I still don't know what I'm going to do with the 27" Toshiba that's in the basement now. Or what I'm going to do with my component video inputs. DVDP, PC, and XBOX all have component outs, and there's one input. I have a switchbox but it's cheap and degraded the signal when I used it with Composite. I don't want to, but I might have to get one of those A/V recievers with all the video switching crap. My hope is that I can find a $50 open box cheapo-brand one that I can use just as a video switch, and keep my current 'Darth Opto' reciever setup (4-input cheapo component switch doesn't degrade audio noticeably with MP3s off the PC, probably due to the much higher bandwidth required by video, and it gives the Opto 6 audio inputs).