heathen savages...

chcr said:
Actually, those are wheels. the rim is the circular outer part of the wheel. In this case they are cast as a solid piece, but technically the wole thing is a wheel, not a rim.
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Yup. You only have a rim when you have a wire spoke wheel (or a three-part wheel on a truck ... but that's another discussion).
 
Professur said:
Yup. You only have a rim when you have a wire spoke wheel (or a three-part wheel on a truck ... but that's another discussion).
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You know, about twice a month they blow one of those truck wheels apart in the truck shop. In a cage, of course but it still sounds like a grenade going off.
 
chcr said:
You know, about twice a month they blow one of those truck wheels apart in the truck shop. In a cage, of course but it still sounds like a grenade going off.
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Deliberately? I don't suppose there's a chance in hell that you could get a video of that, is there?
 
Professur said:
Deliberately? I don't suppose there's a chance in hell that you could get a video of that, is there?
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What kind of idiot would do that deliberately? Never mind, I watch Mythbusters. :D
 
Dad worked in the test cells at Pratt and Whitney. They regularly tested engines to destruction. One of his favorite stories was a time they lost containment and a steel ring rolled (not flew, rolled) over half a mile.
 
chcr said:
Re English Muffins, the ones I eat (Thomas's, usually) are just like the middle ones in Aunty's post. The "house brand" Kroger ones look like Tonsky's, but they are not sweet.

Re wheels and hubcaps, you guys are trying to use two definitions to describe three different things. Traditional wire wheels (as in early cars) are laced like bicycle or motorcycle wheels. the spokes are held into the rim with special nuts. It is very hard to make such a rim tubeless, so modern wire wheels are typically a chrome rim with a wire "basket" (if you look at a set of Tru-spoke wheels this is what you'll see) that bolts or locks into the center. You can run these without the wire basket, but it's not considered a hubcap. Wire hubcaps are typically beat on. GM kind of blurred the distinctions by taking a traditional steel (non-chrome) wheel and welding bits to it to more or less permanently attach the "hubcap." GM lists them as wire wheels and they were an option on Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs. Not really a hubcap, not really the same as an aftermarket wire wheel. :shrug:
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Where are you finding Thomas's? I haven't seen those since I lived in Virginia. I have these organic wheat ones, which are okay but I miss Thomas's.
 
I just got pep boys to change the oil (My mom won't let me do it myself). They told me to get the "high mileage" oil and I was like "142k ain't that much" and they're like "Well you should do it for >75k" and I was like "ok".

So they dumped like five quarts in, and I picked up a sixth quart that I'm going to put in after 1500 miles.
 
Is five quarts what your oil pan is designed to hold? It is for a lot of American V8s, but it pays to make sure. I've been skeptical of shops changing oil ever since the time my grandfather had the oil changed in the Honda at the Firestone place before giving me the car. They put in four quarts, and the engine takes 3.2 plus a tiny-ass filter.
 
Well, they say "up to five quarts" so I think it's possible to assume that they put the correct amount.

of course, the shop manual will be consulted.
 
Altron said:
I just got pep boys to change the oil (My mom won't let me do it myself). They told me to get the "high mileage" oil and I was like "142k ain't that much" and they're like "Well you should do it for >75k" and I was like "ok".

So they dumped like five quarts in, and I picked up a sixth quart that I'm going to put in after 1500 miles.
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I'm not a fan of those. Unless you're using oil, they can cause more trouble than they solve. They improve your oil sealing by introducing a swelling agent into the seals. But if the seals weren't leaking in the first place, you'll actually speed up wearing them out.
 
By leak, do you mean that the motor loses/burns oil slowly over time, or a large and serious leak?

I hit the "add 1 qt" line at about 2,000 miles, which is what the sixth quart is for.
 
JJR512 always maintained to me that the hubcap is part of the wheel and is under the wheelcover, which is the part that can fall off and stuff.
or something like that?
 
Altron said:
By leak, do you mean that the motor loses/burns oil slowly over time, or a large and serious leak?

I hit the "add 1 qt" line at about 2,000 miles, which is what the sixth quart is for.
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Some oil consumption is normal. Required, actually. I usually figure 'normal' to be anywhere from a pint to a quart over the cycle (3 months). If you're not driving in a blue cloud, or leaving puddles behind you, you're good. The problem with that older-engine oil is that once you start using it ... you have to keep using it. Otherwise you spring leaks everywhere. Similarly, putting high grade synthetic into an older engine that's run on conventional dino-rot, the synth is much finer at the molecular level and leaks like a seive.

The long and short is to stick with what you've always used, unless you've got an obvious reason to change it. A brand new engine, you want to break it in with conventional, and then switch to synth asap. It's more expensive, but how much does an engine rebuild cost? If you've run conventional for more than a year, there's no going back to synth. You might get away with it, but it's not a smart choice. The older-engine stuff .... is a gimmick. If the engine needs it, it needs a rebuild more. If you need it, the engine's probably not got more than a year left in it anyhow. Chuck it in, get it to stop smoking, and sell it. But if you're looking at keeping it ... it's a bandaid solution.
 
ash r said:
JJR512 always maintained to me that the hubcap is part of the wheel and is under the wheelcover, which is the part that can fall off and stuff.
or something like that?
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The hubcap IS the wheel cover.
 
Professur said:
Some oil consumption is normal. Required, actually. I usually figure 'normal' to be anywhere from a pint to a quart over the cycle (3 months). If you're not driving in a blue cloud, or leaving puddles behind you, you're good. The problem with that older-engine oil is that once you start using it ... you have to keep using it. Otherwise you spring leaks everywhere. Similarly, putting high grade synthetic into an older engine that's run on conventional dino-rot, the synth is much finer at the molecular level and leaks like a seive.

The long and short is to stick with what you've always used, unless you've got an obvious reason to change it. A brand new engine, you want to break it in with conventional, and then switch to synth asap. It's more expensive, but how much does an engine rebuild cost? If you've run conventional for more than a year, there's no going back to synth. You might get away with it, but it's not a smart choice. The older-engine stuff .... is a gimmick. If the engine needs it, it needs a rebuild more. If you need it, the engine's probably not got more than a year left in it anyhow. Chuck it in, get it to stop smoking, and sell it. But if you're looking at keeping it ... it's a bandaid solution.
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DAMNIT!

I told the guy "I heard that you shouldn't use the synthetic stuff in a motor that's been running on the dino stuff for a lot of miles" and he's like "That's just a wives tale, the high mileage oil improves the seals."

Awww, whatever, we're only talking a $7 premium on the oil change twice a year.
 
I thought you were suppose to change the oil every 5,000km/3months?
 
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