When...

Dave said:
yup. whoever put the carpet in did a good job. had a tough time getting a section to peel up. :D
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Now your wife is gonna be all suspicious and think you're hiding something under the carpet.
 
Nixy said:
You better hope she doesn't trip on the loose edge when she gets home :D
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oh dont worry. grabbed a corner behind the chair on both floors. no foot traffic there.
 
Hardwood upstairs isn't a problem. Its tile that would be a problem. The flooring of the second and third story have a little bit of give. Its natural considering the guts of the place is wood. Wood has a tiny bit of flexibility. Small bathrooms are ok with tile because they are so small. Minimal linear distance from support beam to support beam means less wiggle... but the rooms were talking about are up to 15 feet across/ 7 1/2 feet from support walls. That kind of weight combined with general traffic would make either the tiles snap or the grout lines crack and crumble with time. I would be more game for a super high quality vynil.
 
He knows I am teasing. That one item is down the list right now. The gutters and the downstairs bathroom are first.
 
Check your soffit boards for rotting, prime and paint before you put up new gutters ;)
 
Also, when I had new gutters put up, I had them put in 'drip gaurds'. It's a right angle peice of metal that slips up under the shingles and over the back side of the gutter......prevents water from getting between the gutter and the soffit boards.
 
There is no way I can do my own gutter work. I'm going to need an outright fire truck to get up that high. Getting a decent set of gutterguards is going to cost me several thousand... like 8.
 
Parlty because the snazzy leafless guards are 2-3 times the raw cost of simple capless gutters; partly because of the sheer linear footagle involved; partly because everything done in my immediate area gets a double up surcharge for all services because the area is affluent.
 
And partly because the amount of scaffolding required will delay any other projects the company might undertake.
 
I heard those leaf gaurds aren't what they're cracked up to be. If you get industrial sized gutters/down spouts, leaf clogging may not be too much of a problem.

That drip gaurd I mentioned isn't a leaf gaurd feature and it only cost me an extra $60. But I don't really have that much gutter area around my house. Probably no more than 80 linear feet.
 
Ah. I'm looking at like 200 linear feet or so... plus some nooks and crannies on the back.

I need leafless something or other because my back yard is an upsloping hill with 15 mature oaks and sweetgums. Come October this place is a leaf-tornado. I need fat downspouts because of the great sq/footage of my roof. The quantity of rain rolling off of it is staggering.
 
About twice as much, but they're forever. But then, you keep talking about selling, and they just don't add that much resell value.
 
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